In 1960, Jean-Luc Godard released his
nouvelle vague masterpiece
Breathless, launching Jean-Paul Belmondo on an unsuspecting world. Critics talk about contemporary film history as before
Breathless and after
Breathless, but fashionistas could take a cue. Jean-Paul was onto something.
Belmondo springs from that white tee, wiry bod school of Brando and Dean. The former boxer (that nose!) is raw, mumbled sex appeal, but stick him in a horizontally-striped French Navy boatman sweater and send the dresser home for the rest of the shoot. We’ve pictured his
Breathless co-star Jean Seaberg working the look because we prefer Belmondo out of clothes.
But the nautical look continues to rock the French. Check out another Jean-Paul, the French designer Gaultier, and the “packaging” for his Le Male fragrance bottle. And if JP and Naomi look a little waxy, it’s not from partying at
Les Bains Douches. This pic was snatched from Chez Tussauds.
When Belmondo’s not in his jaunty hat and trench, his look is pretty much boxers and cigarettes. I’m a non-smoker, but I’ve always allowed my partner to light up after, and, quite frankly, during sex. I find it erotic and obviously Mlle.
Erotica does too. Who can forget Breathless Mahoney smoking on the MTV Awards? We’ve collected some of Madonna’s hotter
le smoking looks at left.
Finally, there are those boxers. In
Breathless’ most famous scene, Belmondo romps around a hotel room in just a pair of tidy white ones. They’re impossibly geeky, and Belmondo wears them waistline well past navel, but it doesn’t matter because they’ll be doffed.
We’ve captured Richard Gere working the look in the dismal 1983
Breathless remake. And, of course, the camera has captured other memorable underoos moments. Yes, Tom Cruise sliding across the floor in his briefs and Ray-Bans and what about these white hot Calvin ads with the then "Marky" Mark grabbing his funky bunch? Exposed undergarments retain their fashionable pull on the public. You still see it today with middle-aged gay men dressed like public school students: high-rise boxers peeking from low-rise jeans.
But unlike Gere and Mr. Wahlberg, Belmondo continues to exert a profound effect on fashion. We’re ending with this triptych of Belmondo and
Milk star James Franco. This pouty hottie rising has roots firmly in Jean-Paul Belmondo-ville. Just look at those lips. But enough about Franco. Back to gay Paris and that Jean-Luc Godard 1960 classic and one of the key films of the French New Wave. Imagine this: the
Breathless star has just arrived in town. He steals a car. He kills a cop. He tries to get laid. Take a moment to inhale, he may leave you breathless.
In 1990, documentary filmmaker Jennie Livingston released her seven-year labor of love Paris Is Burning. The film chronicled disenfranchised members of a New York subculture composed of various houses, or loose familial amalgams of young queens miles away from Fashion Avenue, yet close enough to hold a mirror up to its gorgeous excess.
These queens walked the runway in elaborate drag balls where members of competing houses would imitate everything from high fashion models to urban roughnecks in the category “banjee realness,” or as its explained in the film, “looking like the kind of girl that walks her little brother to school.”
Livingston’s film grossed almost four million dollars domestically, gangbusters for a nonfiction feature. Three months before Livingston’s Toronto International Film Festival debut, Madonna’s song “Vogue” hit the top of Billboard’s Hot 100. That song, and accompanying David Fincher video, provided a slick backdrop for the intricate gesture and tableaux freeze movement vocabulary approximating the titular fashion magazine come to life.
Over the course of one summer, two white women loosed the perfect storm, unleashing queer black culture on an unsuspecting pop landscape. Over the next fifteen years, New York’s landscape changed so dramatically that drag queens and hustlers fronting pier culture — so named for the abandoned West Village piers on which houses would gather to “do shows” — were replaced by manicured Rollerblade paths trafficked by aerodynamic, three-wheel, jog strollers. Paris had burned.
Cut to 2005. Livingston’s film has its long-awaited DVD release ($23.99) and a full-on Vogue resurgence fires up in London, bringing piers queens back like phoenix from the flame. Maybe. There are still aerodynamic, three-wheel, jog strollers, but some of the children are vogueing.
