EXPERIENCE: Annie Leibovitz's Wonderland

Memory is a funny thing with a will all its own. We forget something told to us 10 minutes ago, or even the mission that brought us to a room. Then there are other times. Precise, small moments that seem unimportant but stay imprinted on us like a photograph we carry in our minds. These powerful memories often attach to the first time we heard a favorite song or read the final pages in our most beloved novel. For me that moment is the first time I saw my favorite fashion editorial.

In December of 2003, I was a junior in high school. I always enjoyed fashion and the latest trends such as chandelier earrings and the Hard Tail pants craze. But something in me changed when I first saw Annie Leibovitz's “Alice in Wonderland” fashion editorial spread for Vogue's December issue. The 12-page editorial featured a 21-year-old Natalia Vodianova, the doe-eyed Russian model with a fairytale rags-to-riches story of her own. Each page delivered an adventure unto its own. Staying true to Alice's signature color, Vodianova dons a new breathtaking blue couture gown in each photo, and the designer of each dress poses alongside the model as a character from Lewis Carroll's whimsical story. In one scene, John Galliano poses as the Queen of Hearts; in another, Tom Ford and Vodianova fall down the rabbit hole together. Apart from the beautiful imagery and the decadence of the dresses, what I realized that day was that fashion isn't just clothes. Fashion possesses the power to tell a story, to reveal something about a person that escaped you before. It reflects human emotions and desires, and the best part is, fashion unlocks the imagination. At least that's what it did for me that day in my high-school library.

A-LIST: Top 5 Fashion Photographers

Professor Lawrence Mason founded and directs a summer program in fashion photography at Syracuse University's London Centre and teaches classes in fashion and portrait photography at the Newhouse School. Here, he gives Salty his top picks for the world's best fashion photographers and why:

1. Albert Watson. “For his phenomenal lighting ability,” Mason says. “His images are powerful and he's passionate about all genres of photography.”


2. Richard Avedon. “For the same reasons that I like Albert Watson. He's passionate about all kinds of photography including portraits, and photojournalism. He is most known for the motion he brought to fashion photography.”


3. Paolo Roversi. “For the outstanding dimensionality and contrast in his images,” Mason says. “His images are not totally sharp because of his long shutter speed making the quality of light in his images very romantic and very Italian.


4. Helmut Newton. “Extremely controversial and very misunderstood. He was able to create a world of photography by being true to himself,” Mason says. “Many people don't realize that he was actually afraid of women, and by using his sly humor and unique vision he was able to create a fantasy of himself.”

Self-portrait with Wife June and Models.

5. Jeffrey Licata. “He's my best friend, and I was his first photography teacher,” says Mason. “He does more for students than any other photographer. He's near to my heart plus he's amazingly talented.” Licata has shot advertising campaigns for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Liz Claiborne and directed TV commercials for retail stores in the U.S. and fashion videos for Valentino and Nicole Miller.



Check out Professor Mason and Professor Chessher's new book Looking for Lockerbie!

All images from Google Images.

OBSESSION: Hanky Panky

If you had asked me what Hanky Pankys were a few months ago, I would have probably given you a dirty look and walked away. Little did I realize that those two little words would turn my underwear world upside down and transform me into a true believer in the notion that thongs and comfort really can co-exist.

I embrace lingerie just as much as the next girl, but I never understood the difference between my $6.99 pair from GapBody and my friend’s $18 lacey contraption from Nordstrom. Why spend a fortune on underwear when it looks the same, serves the same purpose, and tends to ride up in all the same places?

Then I received a three-piece thong set of Hanky Panky underwear for my birthday. The lingerie company Hanky Panky offers one-size-fits-all, low-rise thongs, which The Wall Street Journal called “lace butter.” These underwear wonders come in every color imaginable (teaberry, waterfall grape, and coco for example) and offer girls a comfortable choice without entering granny-panty territory.

Magazines from Baazar to Vanity Fair and Modern Bride featured the life-changing undergarment, which boasts a celebrity following that includes Jennifer Aniston, Eva Longoria, Cameron Diaz, Katherine Heigl Kate Hudson… and now me.

SNAPS: Winter Wonder

Senior Public Relations major Katie Green puts a summer sundress to good use for a snowy night out on Marshall Street by pairing it with brown tights and knee-high leather boots.

A-LIST: Sophisticated Chic

Leading ladies with style and class. For years, throughout the 1950s and 1960s particularly, Jackie O., Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly ran the show. These women epitomized what every female wanted to be. They had elegance and sophistication that could not be learned. Today, with the exception of a few, most women cannot emulate the essence of these past beauties.

1.) Scarlet Johanson as Grace Kelly.

2.)Natalie Portman as Audrey Hepburn

3.)Michelle Obama as Jackie O.

HOW TO: Look the Part

Next semester, a number of Syracuse’s juniors will be jetting to foreign countries for a semester abroad. When surrounded by fashionable Europeans, it’s easy to stick out like an American sore thumb. Follow these simple steps, and look the part while gallivanting across Europe.

1.) Rock the trench coat and look chic and sophisticated while out at a club or sightseeing (Wool-cashmere Dana coat, $340, Jcrew.com).
2.) Slip into a pair of fabulous leather boots (that aren’t UGGs) and attract attention as you prance around a foreign place (Long Brewster leather boots, $198, Jcrew.com).
3.) Frame your face with an ultra fashionable hat that will add flash to any outfit (Zoe Beret in black, $148, Coach.com).
4.) Lastly, add some sophistication to your wintertime European garb, with a pair of leather gloves (Women’s Three Button Glove in Black, $158, Coach.com).

HOW TO: Fold A Shirt

LOOK BOOK: Black By Popular Demand

Fashion reflects our cultural mood, and the recent run of the austere combinations of black and white reflect the world’s contemplative disposition. But these classic looks of Spartan hue prove you don’t need the flash of color to look strikingly glamorous.


Oscar de la Renta, Pre-Fall 2009 Collection


Actress Blake Lively


Limi Feu, Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear Collection


Marc Jacobs, Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear Collection


Actress Kate Hudson


Lanvin, Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear Collection


Doo.Ri, Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear Collection

A-LIST: Move Over McCarthy and McQueen

If you want to know the heir apparent of fashion’s design dynasty, consider these five wunderkinds who are destined to make the world a much more beautiful place.

Danielle Scutt

Preferring gladiators to glamazons, Scutt’s spring 2008 collection combines masculine and feminine overtones to produce light chiffon dresses, trench coats and organza suits. The collage of Popism, exotic head wraps, denim jump suits, and some Andy Warhol hints comprise her spring 2009 ready-to-wear collection. While still very new, Scutt is poised as Britain’s next big designer. Move over McQueen and McCarthy.

Thakoon

Thakoon Panichgul started out as a fashion writer but learned early on that his eye for fashion extended beyond the page. Panichgul studied at Parsons School of Design and produced his first day-wear collection in 2004. He soon received a Hollywood cult following by celebrities such as Rachel Bilson and Sarah Jessica Parker. He also received some political attention when he dressed Michelle Obama in a whimsically printed sheath dress. Oh snaps!

Doo.ri

While designer Doo-Ri Chung has been in the fashion game for a while, working for six years under Geoffrey Beene, she started her own design label in 2001. From her parent’s dry-cleaning store basement Chung, sculpted the luscious drape dresses and silk tops that represent the Doo.ri brand. In 2006 Chung received the Swarovski's Perry Ellis Award for emerging talent in womenswear from the CFDA. Doo.ri’s Spring 2009 collection infuses bright magenta in the light and airy slate gray charmeuse blouses.

Vena Cava

Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai started their collection in the spring of 2003, three weeks after they graduated from Parsons School of Design. These two Brooklynites found inspiration in everything from the rich colors of Mumbai to the playfulness of the swinging sixties. Vena Cava offers a fun approach to day wear with art deco inspired shift dresses and structured twill bottoms. The dynamic duo captures the street style of Brooklyn and infuse it with some old Hollywood class.

Joeri Van Yper

While the names Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeuleme may sound familiar, the latest prodigy of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, remains under the radar. For now at least. The New Yorker called Joeri Van Yper, who graduated in 2008, ‘the next generation of fashion.’ His winter collection features cerulean blue thick tweeds and bulk cable knit pants. Van Yper’s shoe designs feature gravity-defying heels that rival Dame Vivian Westwood. While Van Yper has yet to create a line, expect him to join the ranks of the Antwerp Six, soon to be seven.

PROFILE: Double Shot of Vintage Cool

Every girl wants to accessorize. Adding that hint of gold, silver, or a jewel-encrusted stone creates a focal point and helps create a signature style. But who has the time or energy to rummage through Carousel Mall or vintage stores around Syracuse looking for those one-of-a-kind standout pieces?

Enter, Kristen Lubsen and Kaitlyn Carpenter, two S.U. students who are redefining vintage jewelry on campus. Lubsen, a painting major, and Carpenter, a fashion-design major, combined forces to make costume jewelry. Their new line, Double K Vintage, features earrings and rings that are simple, vintage, and unique, and the pieces sell for a steal. Earrings come in two sizes small ($5) or large ($7), and all rings cost $10 and feature adjustable bases to fit any size finger.


The idea for the company began when Carpenter couldn’t find earrings to match a dress for her junior fashion collection. After a fruitless search, she decided to create her own. Lubsen loved the look of the earrings she found, taking clip-on earrings and transforming them into unique rings and pierced earrings. She thought many students would purchase similar ones. So the two began creating big and bold jewelry from second-hand pieces.


On the first day the line debuted, Double K Vintage sold more than 15 pairs of earrings and seven rings. Demand was high, and Lubsen and Carpenter scurried to make new pieces for their sale at the Schine Bookstore on December 10.

Even though Carpenter leaves in January to study abroad in London next semester, the two plan to keep the business going. Lubsen takes over operations until her business partner returns in Fall 2009. Send requests for pieces to doublekvintage@gmail.com

SNAPS: Fresh Furs

Senior Advertising and Retail Management major Tori Berdelle displays her winter wear before heading to a holiday party. Her fur scarf is a signature piece to take any outfit from ordinary to extraordinary.

LANDMARK LOOKS: Stylish Soiree

Holiday Dinner Party
Syracuse University
December 5

A-LIST: Tropical Treats

Whether venturing to sunny Florida, Puerto Rico, Cabo San Lucas, or staying home for this year’s holiday break, book a trip to the mall to get dibs on this season’s resort must-haves. New silhouettes, new colors, and new prints make you dream about a vacation even if you’re not going on one (plus it’s never to early to plan for spring break). Consider these pieces for your next tropical escape.


Dare to be different: A one-piece suit is sure to make a splash. Dive into this Anna & Boy deep V halter suit. The bow detail on the front adds to the suits sophisticated allure. Throw on a pair of heels, kick your feet back, and brace yourself to be the center of attention. Available at Shopbop.com, $220.


Dress to Impress: Escape in style with this colorful, bold print, Trina Turk cover-up. This eclectic piece can be transformed - from beachwear to street chic in seconds. Perfect for a boardwalk stroll or with a cosmopolitan at a café at sunset. Available at Victoriassecret.com, $159.


Sole Support: Just as you need a mental break from the 9-5 grind, your feet need stiletto time off too. Step into a pair of Havianas (“the best rubber sandal in the world”). Havianas come in a wide range of styles and colors making them an easy complement to any outfit. Nordstrom.com, $18.


On the Fly: Sun and sightseeing await so don’t waste time fussing with your hair. For a quick fix, adorn yourself in style with this bright colored turban headband. Also sold in purple and yellow. Forever21.com, $3.80.


Preserve the Glow: Even after your fun in the sun ends, shine bright with GlowFusion Micro-Nutrient Face & Body Natural Protein Tan Enhancing Emulsion. The lotion contains DHA, a chemical that interacts with your skin cells to enhance and extend your skin's sun-kissed color. Sephora.com, $40.

SNAPS: Formal Foot Traffic

The statement shoe trend continued at this year’s fall formal scene. Kenneth Cole Reaction “Know Way” heels proved an ultimate show-stopper, causing many party-goers to look twice before reporting back to the dance floor. Available at Kennethcole.com, $69.

CRUSH: My One-and-Edgy Only

Model Sarah Cohn, a sophomore retail-management major, sports three signature looks from LF’S new Fall line. LF is a trendy, up-and-coming, contemporary fashion retailer, offering unique, one-of-a-kind clothing for all those looking to remain on the cutting edge. Store locations include: Manhattan, Soho, The Hamptons, Beverly Hills, Newbury Street in Boston, and Miami. During National Breast Cancer Awareness Week in October, the store held a charity-driven trunk show at the Schine Student Center. The store plans to host an additional trunk show on the SU Campus in the Spring. Visit www.lfstores.com to shop online (for Sarah’s looks & many more) or to seek out additional information.