Showing posts with label Gabby Mandel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gabby Mandel. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

REVIEW: A Definite Do!


Whether you’re a die-hard vice-ite or just in need of some comic relief from trend report overload, Vice Dos and Don'ts: 10 Years of VICE Magazine's Street Fashion Critiques, serves up the perfect cocktail of clever humor and catty commentary. Authors Gavin McInnes, Shane Smith, and Suroosh Alvi travel the world over to bring you some of the greatest fashion faux pas. Vice chronicles everything from lizard-body-tattoo man to disco grannies, and a few other groups of people you never knew existed (Glam Jocks?). Caustic, pee-your-pants-funny commentary punctuates each farcical photo with obscure pop-culture references (Terry Shivo?). While taking the Do column seriously may be a fashion offense, this paperback packs a punch leaving you with a feeling of superior style. When shopping for the fashionista with killer wit and a (very) open mind, Vice Dos and Don’t’s is a definite do!

EXPERIANCE: Haircut Confessions


If you met me three years ago, you would remember me by my hair. It was big, bushy, and brassy: a curly auburn mane that fell just below my shoulder blades. My hair earned compliments followed by caresses of my tresses, but I felt that I needed a hair change. Rather than go for a cute, angled shoulder cut, I decided to cut it all off. I envisioned a pixie cut similar to that of Michelle Williams or Audrey Hepburn.
While my decision remained firm, my hairdresser took some convincing. She called it “drastic” and pleaded with me to keep my mane. She almost swayed me, but I knew I needed a change. While I loved my hair, I felt it was all people saw when they looked at me. I also had sparkling hazel eyes, a milky complexion and oh yeah, a great personality. My hairdresser, Ji, pulled herself together and delivered a spectacular coif.



It felt odd to run my hand through my hair in one quick stroke. But it also felt liberating. My cut shouted: “I am still beautiful even without all my long locks.” It gave me confidence, made me more adventurous with my fashion and beauty, and prompted a domino of other changes. Blush became my new best friend because a shelf of hair no longer covered my cheeks. I indulged in frilly lace dress, a fashion statement that seemed like overkill with my former fairytale Rapunzel hair. Many girlfriends commented on how bold I was to cut off my hair, and some were so inspired they shed their hair too.
For anyone considering a new ‘do for this holiday season, I say go for it. Remember: Life is short, and hair grows. So why not try something new: A short pixie cut, an asymmetrical Rhianna bob, or even just a new hue. You’ll be surprised at what you find when you step out of your comfort zone.



Wednesday, December 10, 2008

A-LIST: Move Over McCarthy and McQueen

If you want to know the heir apparent of fashion’s design dynasty, consider these five wunderkinds who are destined to make the world a much more beautiful place.


Danielle Scutt

Preferring gladiators to glamazons, Scutt’s spring 2008 collection combines masculine and feminine overtones to produce light chiffon dresses, trench coats and organza suits. The collage of Popism, exotic head wraps, denim jump suits, and some Andy Warhol hints comprise her spring 2009 ready-to-wear collection. While still very new, Scutt is poised as Britain’s next big designer. Move over McQueen and McCarthy.

Thakoon

Thakoon Panichgul started out as a fashion writer but learned early on that his eye for fashion extended beyond the page. Panichgul studied at Parsons School of Design and produced his first day-wear collection in 2004. He soon received a Hollywood cult following by celebrities such as Rachel Bilson and Sarah Jessica Parker. He also received some political attention when he dressed Michelle Obama in a whimsically printed sheath dress. Oh snaps!




Doo.ri

While designer Doo-Ri Chung has been in the fashion game for a while, working for six years under Geoffrey Beene, she started her own design label in 2001. From her parent’s dry-cleaning store basement Chung, sculpted the luscious drape dresses and silk tops that represent the Doo.ri brand. In 2006 Chung received the Swarovski's Perry Ellis Award for emerging talent in womenswear from the CFDA. Doo.ri’s Spring 2009 collection infuses bright magenta in the light and airy slate gray charmeuse blouses.


Vena Cava

Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai started their collection in the spring of 2003, three weeks after they graduated from Parsons School of Design. These two Brooklynites found inspiration in everything from the rich colors of Mumbai to the playfulness of the swinging sixties. Vena Cava offers a fun approach to day wear with art deco inspired shift dresses and structured twill bottoms. The dynamic duo captures the street style of Brooklyn and infuse it with some old Hollywood class.

Joeri Van Yper

While the names Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeuleme may sound familiar, the latest prodigy of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, remains under the radar. For now at least. The New Yorker called Joeri Van Yper, who graduated in 2008, ‘the next generation of fashion.’ His winter collection features cerulean blue thick tweeds and bulk cable knit pants. Van Yper’s shoe designs feature gravity-defying heels that rival Dame Vivian Westwood. While Van Yper has yet to create a line, expect him to join the ranks of the Antwerp Six, soon to be seven.

Monday, December 8, 2008

OBSESSION: Nailed




Though you would not guess it by glancing at my fingers, manicured nails fascinate me. I’m not talking about your regular French tips or average flower stencil. No, my obsession falls under the category of bling nails. Nails with attitude: florescent air brushed talons adorned with anything from tiny Swarovski crystals to glow-in-the-dark paint. Bling nails range anywhere from short squared cuticles to two-inch long, acrylic, curved claws.

While the shapes vary, the designs feature elaborate techniques and intricate patterns. One practice known as ‘water coloring’ is an ancient Vietnamese practice where the nail polish is suspended in water, as the fingernail get dipped in, the polish creates a marble affect. The difficult process produces a stunning result: a fabulously tie-died nail. Stenciling and airbrushing make up the most common designs of bling nails. These miniscule airbrushes produce everything from realistic graffiti scenes to zebra stripes and Hawaiian sunsets across your thumb and pinky finger.
If you find yourself craving some colorful claws, downtown Syracuse offers a few salons that’ll do you right. Lovely Nails (324 Salina Street), a cozy little shop, offers an assortment of colors, and designs start at $8. For $22, you get a full set of acrylics and your choice of design. Walk a block south, and you will find Oriental Nail and Hair Salon (348 Salina Street). Oriental offers a larger selection with florescent colors and cool decals. Hand designs start at $10, but can cost up to $35. By the looks of the packed nail counters, Oriental Nail and Hair Salon was popping; I suggest making an appointment.

If you want to spruce up your look consider getting some bling tips. They offer the attitude of tattoos without the permanence. A friend of mine in high school got her nails done every two weeks to match her various day-glo Nikes. While some nails err on the side of tacky, the overall art form gives off fun and funky vibes to your fingers. Snaps!

Sunday, November 30, 2008

OBSESSION: I Think I'm Turning Japanese



International street style has always been an obsession of mine. In my spare time I find myself scrolling through the pages of Facehunter, the Sartorialist and Lookbook.nu, salivating at the unique appropriation of clothing. So you can imagine I was stoked when I saw Philomena Keets, author of Tokyo Look book, would be giving a lecture at my abroad school; London College of Fashion. Living in London I already bore witnessed a mélange of gritty street fashion, but learning about Tokyo meant a new style infatuation.

Keets, a tall British anthologist with pin straight blonde hair, blew my mind when she told my class she received her PHD in Tokyo street style. She describes her thesis project as roaming the street of Tokyo with photographer Yuri Manabe capturing the stylish and spectacular looks that define Japanese youth. Her pictures showed chipper teens wearing Gucci and construction gear, with hair all colors of the rainbow. At first looks these boys and girls seemed like they got dressed in the dark, but on closer inspection, and with the help of Keets research, I came to find that their looks represent various Japanese subcultures. Here are just a few of my favorites:

Cosplay, meaning costume play, is a performance art where players dress themselves in elaborate costumes and make up and act out the role of their favorite anime or manga characters. Player usually dress and act at Cosplay conventions, but some dedicated few consider it a life style and dress and act like a character.

Gyaru Gal go for the bling. This look evolved from hip hop, but Gyaru gal’s differ from the classic American R& B style. A gyaru girl has a dark tan, long curled locks in shades of blonde, brunette or pink, sparkling ‘Lame’ make-up and some high platform shoes. Gyaru girls have been known to wear platform shoes with a 10 centimeter heels! Gyaru girls swarm the Shibuya district for hot tight ensembles and photo ops.



Elegant Gothic Lolita, my personal favorite. These darling girls adorn themselves in lace infused baby doll dresses to create an Alice in wonderland meets French maid look. The EGL look captures the Victorian era with peter pan collared blouses and crinoline puffed skirts. Mixing childlike looks with adult sensuality, Gothic Lolitas create a look that would tempt Humbert Humbert.

To some involvement and dedication of the Cosplayer and Gothic Lolitas may seem superficial and narcissistic. But to me it represented creativity and a much needed break from the norm. Keets describes walking through the Yoyogi park as entering a fantasy world where anime characters came to life. The lecture fuel my fascination with international looks and inspired me to adds some Lolita hints to my own wardrobe.

HOW TO: Bangin'


Gloss through any magazine and you will see tons of celebs such as Kate Moss and Rachel Bilson rocking some sweet bangs. Whether razor-straight or feathery side swipes, bangs are back. But before you schedule a saloon appointment to achieve some sultry strands, consider doing it yourself. Cutting your bangs involves just a scissors, comb, mirror, and a little bit of confidence. Consider these bangs-cutting tips from my trusted hairdress, Ji Han at Accent on Beaute, in Philadelphia.

1. Ji suggests beginning with dray hair styled as you normally wear it. Before you start snipping, measure from your hairline to your scalp to find a good part that works with your face. For side swipe bangs, make sure your part is more off center. If you have curly hair, avoid super short bangs, so as not to be confused with a Brett Micheal’s groupie.

2. Now that you have figured out you part and your length, add a ½ inch to create a little room for mistakes. For scissors Ji suggests thinning shears such as Krystal Thinning Shears (7.99 at www.ebonyline.com). Run a fine-tooth comb through your hair, separating your bangs and holding the strands evenly through your fingers. For side swipe bangs, angle your fingers so that it becomes longer at the sides. Do not cut straight across, but cut at a forty-five degree angle to give the bangs some feathering.

3. Uneven cutting works will with feathery bangs, but if you want the straight-across mod look, more attention is required. Comb the hair straight in front of your face and start cutting at the center and move to the side to secure an all-around even look

Sunday, November 16, 2008

LANDMARK LOOKS: West(cott) Side

The Westcott Theater played host to some creative glow-in-the-dark garb last Thursday, November 13, 2008. The Westcott Theater (524 Westcott Street) threw a neon toga dance party, where local DJ’s the Smash Brothers and DJ AFAR spun beats. These haute tunes inspired some great DIY creations. Many bedazzled themselves in hi-lighter colored bed sheet. Even those without togas looked rather salty in flirty frocks or sweet graphic tees. These bold styles raise the question: Is Westcott the new Marshal? You be the judge.

















EXPERIENCE: Camden Club Kidzz


“Morning Crescent, mind the gap,” Chimes the dainty British voice, that has come to narrate my daily commute around London. As the doors open, all the girls with shaggy bangs and dapper lads pile out and into the tube station. My friends and I follow the young masses up the stairs and into the night. Outside I catch the reflection of a bright neon sign in one of the many puddles that line Camden High Street. I see a couple sharing pints outside a pub; boys, in Goth make-up, excitedly chat about what club they want to go to next.

Welcome to Camden: epicenter of all that is gritty, raw, fun, and fashionable. By day it serves as London’s funkiest open-air market and the inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s Diaganon Alley in the Harry Potter books. By night it shifts to the glam and swill that gave birth to Amy Winehouse (known as the legend of Camden).

On this night we cross the busy street to club Koko. A long line winds around the side of theater-turn-dance-club. My friends complain, but I see this as the perfect opportunity to soak in some of London’s street fashion. To my right, I see a girl with bleach-blonde hair. She sports bright heliotrope tights with lots of runs. Between puffs on her cigarette, she discusses music festivals with her eyeliner-laden friend who wears a high waisted, salmon-and-navy skirt. While the girls deliver smashing outfits, the boys sport totally mental looks. One guy wears a see-through garbage bag that drapes around his chest. He and his mate dress hospital chic (scrubs, red lipstick and fake blood).

After 20 minutes of waiting and 12 pounds for the cover charge, we move into the club, which features soaring balconies and black lights. Between the bustling bodies, I spy Victoria Beckham inspired coifs, nerdy black Buddy Holly glasses, and raccoon styled eye shadow.

While dancing to the techno beats, I admire the ease these London kids feel in their garish get-ups. What happens here travels fast: Cool hunters watch and copy these looks, until kooky glasses and chartreuse tights crowd the shelves at Topshop. I know the looks I see tonight will soon appear in magazines such as Vice and Nylon. But these boys and girls aren’t thinking about that. They live, dance and dress for the moment. So I follow suit. I grab a sudsy Strongbow, begin to move my body to the beat, and watch as an Edwardian styled prince snogs his Gothic Lolita princess.





Monday, November 10, 2008

OBSESSION: Constructivist Couture






The term “exoticism” stung my mind. It was the assigned inspiration for my senior fashion collection. While the bright colors of a Bengali sari or the intricate bead work of a matador’s cape seem like great muses, I wanted to push the idea. As a fashion designer, I play the role of both stylist and sociologist, and with the current economic state, the mysteries of exotics seemed elusive fuel as catalyst material for a cohesive spring collection. I envisioned severe and serious pieces that demonstrated power through strict lines.
I found the perfect manifesto in Russian Constructivism. This 1920 art and architectural movement pushed design out of the realm of ‘art for art’s sake’ and transformed it into an exercise of social purpose. Bold graphics posters that utilized primary colors and simple shapes characterize the movement. The complex architecture moved me to draft couture pieces with geometric substance. Vladimer Tatlin’s spiraling Monument to the Third International became my guide to denote modernity and a sense of constraint. While the construction of the collection signals high fashion, the mood it suggests seeks to transfer the power of design to the individual. By adopting the style and ideals of constructivism, I hope to create a collection that communicates more than just fashion. You be the judge.







Sunday, November 9, 2008

REVIEW: Swatch Dogs and Diet Coke Heads


The cult classic Heathers pushed the teen movies to a new limit by parodying teen suicide and caricaturing bulimia. This scathing satire of a film poked fun at the John Hugh’s teen movies (we’re talking to you Breakfast Club) and offered the audience an outrageous look at high-school dramatics. Laced with catty dialogue and fashion so bad, it’s good, Heathers works as a stylistic gem. Along with killer instincts, Winona Ryder’s character Veronica Sawyer also wore a fabulous ‘80s wardrobe. Unlike the ‘Swatch dogs and Diet Coke heads’ who comprised the popular Heathers, Veronica’s style was so very. With a classy fedora and sexy black jumper, which no doubt inspired American Apparel, Veronica wore some trend-setting duds. She also created effortless beauty: her scarlet lips looked royal against her porcelain completion and raven hair. The Heathers ruled the school in a ridiculous display shoulder pads and polyester. Their pastel double-breasted blazers (in plaid and paisley) embodied the eighties excess. Teased bouffants with day-glo scrunchies came to exemplify bad taste. But whether you laughed at the politically incorrect humor or recoiled at the gauche display, you have to admit Heathers pushes (and redefines) fashion boundaries. Bad-boy beaux J.D (a.k.a. Christian Slater) said it best: “The extreme always seems to make an impression.”