Friday, November 14, 2008

EXPERIENCE: Wigging Out


One rainy Friday afternoon, a constant stream of curious shoppers buzzed in and out of a bustling boutique inside Carousel Mall in Syracuse, New York.

“A wig shop?” on passerby, a middle-aged soccer mom with a graying pixie cut, asked her portly husband. “You don’t usually see a store like that in here.”

She stopped to admire the collection of the wigs in the front display case. Wigs featuring braids, day-glo Mohawks, sparkly hats, and mullets sat on a row of mannequin heads. “What do you think they’re made with?” her husband asked. “Probably gerbil or hamster hair I bet.”

Undeterred, the woman stepped inside the store. She passed by a rainbow Flock of Seagulls wig, and a Katie Holmes bob. Her husband parked himself on the bench outside. The saleswoman rushed to the soccer mom’s side. “Hi hon, how are you today? What are you in for? Would you like to try something new?”

“I’d love to try really long hair,” laughed the woman, eying a long strawberry-blonde wig. “How about something red?”

“You can try something long, but I think brown is more your color. Try it on, you’ll love it,” the saleswoman cooed as she led the woman to the makeshift salon in the back of the store.

The song “Bossy” by Kelis blasted over the sound system. In the back room a hodge-podge of beauty products, bandannas, and rhinestone clips lay scattered among the racks of mannequin heads, wigs, and sequined trucker hats. Kanekalon-braid hair lined the walls. Glass shelves strained under neutralizers, relaxers, and setting jam. Clear plastic tubs held brushes, combs, and curlers like candy. “I Heart Jesus” scarves hung near the door.

The saleswoman produced the brunette wig with a flourish as the woman perched high in the salon chair. She pulled a nylon skullcap on the woman’s head, and eased the wig on top. In a flurry of bobby pins, the saleswoman poked and prodded before wheeling the chair around to face the mirror.

The woman smiled, moved forward in the chair, and then reached up and gathered her into a ponytail. Five minutes and $30 later, the woman left the store and joined her husband giggling and flipping her hair. The saleswoman greeted the next customer, standing in the doorway.

HOT COCOA’S HAIR AND BEAUTY SUPPLY
CAROUSEL MALL, SYRACUSE, NY
(315) 422-6262
www.hotcocoashair.com

REVIEW: Dior or Die



Every makeup junkie knows the first rule of mascara: thou shalt not clump. I may have memorized the Ten Commandments of Makeup years ago, but unfortunately the beauty gods forgot to grace me with long luscious lashes. For years I tried everything from heated eye lash curlers and falsies, to tiny wands and “lengthening” mascara. Nothing worked. Frustrated and desperately seeking a way to play up my natural assets, I scoured the shelves of drugstores, beauty counters, and makeup mega shops. I researched, read reviews, and tried countless samples. I did my homework. My reward: I found the perfect mascara that meets my every need (and lifts my every lash) — Diorshow.

To say that this mascara attracts a cult-like following is an understatement. More than 1,800 fanatics posted their reviews of the product on Sephora.com. Christian Dior’s Diorshow serves as the company’s original mascara ($24 and available in black, chestnut, plum, and azure blue). The formula lengthens even the shortest lashes by adding volume at the root. While some people complain that the mascara is too dry and flaky, I think that Diorshow’s twin mascara, Blackout (also $24), gives an extra ounce of drama. Use Diorshow the original during the day to keep things airy and light, and swipe on an extra coat of Blackout before heading out to knock ‘em dead.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

TRIPLE THREAT: Crushing on Crochet






Beware: This is not your grandmother’s knitting. Designers from John Galliano to Valentino are incorporating traditional techniques to give your outfit a bit of boho-chic flavor. Oscar De La Renta’s Crochet Sweater ($1,690; Bergdorfgoodman.com) gradates from green to yellow, providing a stylish optical illusion that transfixes onlookers. Milly’s Crochet-Trim Cashmere Cardigan, ($375; Bergdorfgoodman.com) gives decided flare to the traditional schoolteacher’s look. And, Giuliana’s Teso Mink Knit Crochet Scarf ($350; Bergdorf Goodman.com) radiates with textural drama.

REVIEW: Double Teamed



Watch out world: The Miller sisters are here and there’s no way to stop them. After conquering the realm of film, Sienna Miller teams up with her sister Savannah, who earned her fashion cred working with Alexander McQueen, to create the clothing line Twenty8Twelve, named in honor of Sienna’s birthday. Reflecting London Chic with a punk-meets-boho edge, the sisters offer everything from jeans to outerwear, dresses, and bags. The duo based their accessories collection, including gloves, totes, belts, etc., on the 1980s movie "This Is England." Rocking lustrous black, blue, and red leathers with gold facets, the line adds flare to even the blandest ensemble. Go for a sleek, tailored look with edge in the Clyde Jacket in Mink ($590; REVOLVEclothing.com). Channel your inner rock star in the Brittany Tunic in Raven ($125; REVOLVEclothing.com). Wear the Cordella Tank in Oxblood clubbing and never second-guess your fabulosity ($100; REVOLVEclothing.com). Or look sophisticated, stunning, and stylish in the Prudent Blouse in Enamel ($210; REVOLVEclothing.com). If you crave instant chic, you found it (Twenty8twelve.com).

OBSESSION: Fortunate One



Working retail always includes folding numerous amounts of denim. I spent everyday wishing for an Obsessive Compulsive Disorder and tedious hours making sure that the left pockets faced up, the tags tucked, and that the stacks of jeans sat in size order, ruler straight.

After a long Friday at one internship (where I was paid in vegan food at lunchtime), I stared at the new denim shipment. Christie, my bubbly employer ran over to run her hands down the denim. “Everyone loves these jeans,” she said. It was true. From May until August, everyone — rich tourists, trophy wives, motorcycle-gang lesbians — wanted these jeans despite their $295 price tag (my clothing allowance for a year). I ran my hands down the jeans. They felt like cashmere woven into a denim twill. Christie took pity on me and offered to charge me the wholesale price, a mere $110.

I stared at them the whole summer. Size 27. Low-rise. "Karen" fit. Chinese coin button surrounded by 24 perfect Swavorski crystals. Chinese Tang dynasty satin pockets. Satin waistband. (According to the sales representative the Tang dynasty symbol was just recently made legal to wear for those not related to the emperor's family.) And a satin fortune sewn into the back of the waistband read: "Tropical vacation is in your future." But the best was they really made my butt looked phenomenal. August arrived, and the $110 sat in my pocket from working at my other jobs. Roughly, these jeans cost 14 hours of work, and my parents could never know that I spent a dime on anything other than a loan payment. I picked up the jeans and held them for a second. Overwhelmed with guilt, I put them back. At the end of the day, Christie handed me the jeans. "I have money in my bag for them," I said. Christie shook her head, "No, please, you deserve them."

HOW TO: Tie One One

We know. A scarf’s job reads: keep the neck warm. We also know that long stretches of fabulous fabric deliver more than heat and utility. They possess the power to make a tee look rich and a cashmere sweater look Trump rich (in pre-recession dollars). Learn these knots, expand your looks, and earn a Ph.D. in scarfery.




The Italian Loop: Consider this the scarf with training wheels. Fold the scarf in half and put it around your neck. Pull the ends through the loop and pull it tight. Wear it snug to your throat or lose. Both ways convey simple elegance. It also works over or under your coat.



The Square Knot: Wrap the scarf around your neck making sure that one end is longer than the other. Wrap the longer end all around your neck, around the shorter end, and then pull it up and trough. The tighter the fit, the warmer the neck. It also works as a coat topper.



Easier Square Knot: Wrap the scarf all the way around your neck then tie one end through the other pull your coat over to keep you warm.



The Safety: Wrap the scarf all the way around your neck as many times as you like.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

CRUSH: Canadian Juicy

Lululemon is to Canadian girls what Juicy Couture is to Americans: wonderfully comfortable, incredibly flattering, and painfully overpriced sweatwear designed for girls who want to be chic even when they’re lounging around. One of Lululemon’s best sellers is the company’s Remix Hoodie ($93):

Despite the prohibitive cost, this humble-looking sweatshirt earned cult status among our fashionable neighbors to the north for a few reasons.

Consider the construction:

The Remix is a great example of a simple product with perfect design. The hoodie features a long torso, perfect for preventing that dreaded patch of skin from being exposed to the elements. Extra-long sleeves and a high chin create added warmth. Every seam is sewn flat, which means that chafing will never be an issue. The hoodie features thick, soft preshrunk cotton, which ensures endless washing minus the wear.

TRIPLE THREAT: Winter Skin Wunderkinds

The icy chill of winter wreaks havoc on even the most flawless complexions. The one-two punch of nose-diving temperatures and dry blasts of indoor heat create chapped, flaky skin that begs to be moisturized. But those blessed with more than nature’s natural allotment of oil sometimes suffer from extra moisturizing. Fortunately, several skincare lines have developed products designed to moisturize and protect skin without aggravating acne-prone complexions.

New Yorkers in the know love Kiehl’s Centella Skin Calming Facial Cleanser ($28.50) and Recovery Skin Salve ($42).

The face wash incorporates aloe vera and chamomile into a calming yet effective soap-free formula. The Kiehl’s team developed this wash to treat skin types prone to redness, dryness, and acne. An added bonus: the product’s convenient pump packaging ensures that you’ll never use too much, and the hefty 8.5 ounce size of product lasts until the grass begins to green.

The skin salve relieves the irritation caused by waxing and microdermabrasion, but it’s just as suitable for use as a daily moisturizer. The salve feels lotion-like, making its name somewhat deceiving, and offers an un-greasy consistency that sinks into the skin almost instantaneously, leaving it incredibly soft.

If the idea of a skincare line that soothes, moisturizes, and doesn’t anger oily skin intrigues you, but you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, check out Eucerin’s Redness Relief line. The line, which include a cleanser ($9), night crème ($15), and perfecting lotion ($15), is affordable and effective in fighting against the winter flakies.

We saved the worst winter ailment for last — chapped, cracked lips. Forget slick lipgloss. For dryness this severe, break out the heavy artillery. We recommend Aquaphor (around $6), a petroleum-based drugstore find that does a great job of healing weather-ravaged lips while protecting against further damage.

LOOK FOR LESS: Fashionable Foundations

The best fashion bets ground a look in signature pieces that work with a range of other outfits. Consider these three pieces: They create the perfect ensemble for a night on the town, and they play well with others in your closet.


1) The silk vest with tie at neck could be perfectly combined over a sexy black dress or a tank and skinnies. (Myne – Audrey Vest; $72.90; Shopbop).

2) Pair the vest with American Apparels Sheer Jersey Chemise in black. Wear as a mini-dress or a long tank over jeans. (Sheer Jersey Chemise; $24;American Apparel )

3) Add Shiekhs platform heels for a high volt of staggering glamour (hopefully not literally, of course). (Shiekh DS-SW7653; $44.97; Shiekshoes)

D.I.Y.: Scarf Shirt



I caught scarf fever this summer. Every time I walked into a store, I bought one — plaid, floral, animal print, bold colors. It provides an effortless accent to any outfit, allowing you to change it up, without spending too much. But when searching through my closet one night, I found that this swatch of fabric offers even more versatility. It can double as a neck adornment and as a flashy fun party top. Follow these steps to craft your scarf into a halter top .

Here’s what you’ll need:
- One stylish square shaped scarf.
- One friend with nimble fingers.
- Two safety pins that match the scarf (optional).

Here’s how to do it:
1. Hold the scarf at the two top corners and roll about ¼ of the way up.
2. Wrapping the two ends around your neck, without tying, have a friend take the two bottom corners and tie a knot or safety pin them in the back.


3. Take the two top corners, criss-cross, and tie behind your neck, making a loop.
4. Adjust for comfort.

PROFILE: Pretty, Pretty Playthings


As young girl running around in her dad’s jewelry warehouse in Rhode Island, Keryn Tommasiello considered jewelry her playground. The senior fashion design major at Syracuse University still does. She creates one-of-a-kind statement pieces. “I love eye-catching, colorful things,” she says. “I want someone to see it, and look at it again.”

She juxtaposes the goddess of fertility next to skulls and guns. She experiments with charms, braided leather, colorful bangles, rubber bracelets, and playful ornaments that make her jewelry standout. Prices range from $20 (the least expensive being the single charm with a leather braid) to $35 (the most expensive being the stackables – more than 5 charms stacked on 15 bangles per set). She also creates anything her customers crave.



She started designing her customizable jewelry collection called KeryAnne’s Designs, about a year ago and has hosted several parties to sell her pieces within the last six months. Her items sell at boutique stores in her hometown in Rhode Island, but her designs are readily accessible to the Syracuse consumer. For more information on her collection or to arrange a time to privately view her collection, please e-mail katommas@syr.edu.

REVIEW: Fabulous Gloom

For anyone who pines for Halloween 365 days of the year, hope lies in the fabulous gloom of the Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology's current special exhibition, Gothic: Dark Glamour. A look into contemporary couture's interpretation of the ancient theme of darkness, curator and fashion historian Valerie Steele, Ph.D., presents an avant-garde collection with an edge.

Located in the basement of the museum (Fashion Avenue at 27th Street), the exhibit's foyer introduces the themes of luxury and excess showcased in the main gallery. Human skulls and bats fill a cabinet of curiosities. Victorian mourning jewelry, among other vulcanite and silver forms of birds and talons from the 1860s, juxtapose a tattooed top hat from 2007. Behind a glass barrier, a coffin suffocates a mannequin dressed in a velvet gown from the end of the 20th century. No shoes adorn her feet. She wears minimal make-up.

Deeper inside the show, Gothic takes on a new twist with every fallen brick and shattered glass of its destructive demeanor. Gothic defines itself through the supernatural, death, sex, time, and transcendence. Black dominates the space, but every touch of red tastes like blood. With its panniers protruding, a Christian Dior dress by John Galliano, constructed from red-coated silk and black ink, commands the space. Haunting faces emerge from a screened wall paneling. A prosthetic corset by Alexander McQueen suggests the costumed armor worn by Edward Scissorhands.

An overarching sense of claustrophobia prompts one to shift stances. Scary. The floor shakes, as the subway surges below the surface. Cemetery gates encircle an elevated platform that features fashions by Rodarte and Hussain Chalayan. Black-velvet skulls and cross bones embellish a red mesh top by Jean Paul Gaultier. Other may wish to see no evil, but what fun (and fashion) is there in that.

Free of charge to anyone with a student ID, the exhibition continues until February 21, 2009. For more information, go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

LOOKS FOR LESS: Posh Yourself Up

I tell you what you want, what you really, really want: Victoria Beckham (a.k.a Posh Spice) sense of style (and her husband would be pretty sweet too). Get Mrs. David Beckham’s look and spend less coin. Nabbing a soccer star knock-off is up to you.



1. Start with Jolt Skinny Stretch Jeans in Jet Black from Nordstroms ($42; www.nordstroms.com).


2. Invest in a classic staple. This white collared shirt from The Gap is destined to be an outfit regular ($39.50; www.gap.com).


3. A Black Tuxedo Vest by Forever 21 ($17.80; www.forever21.com) adds some va-va-voom to the ensemble.


4. Bring height and power with high black pumps from Steve Madden, $99.95 (www.stevemadden.com).


5. Finishing touch: a black headband from Aldo ($5; www.aldo.com).

Q & A: Go-To Fashion Guru


Every morning, I rely on meeting retail major AJ Ellis for an unofficial date at 7:35 a.m. in Haven Dining Hall. A recognizable face on campus, people know AJ by his signature bow ties and his rumored relation to Karl Lagerfeld (AJ expresses no comment on the latter). Immersed in our busy schedules, me with my inundation of studio electives and him with the second advertising campaign of the organization in which he founded, www.stitchsociety.blogspot.com , we early-risers find consistency in our egg white omelets and fashion-world updates. With his iPOD touch always on hand and forever connected to the internet, AJ provides visuals from recent runway shows. We eat. We chat. We race to our 8 a.m. classes.

On this Monday morning, I see that my friend, incognito with shades and dressed in all black attire, beat me to our usual spot (third booth from the door). I grin and approach him. On hearing the sound of heels, he looks up. I plop down a garment bag filled with my recycled project for draping, a coat constructed with a vintage wool blanket and wicker upholstery. We pick up right where we left off.

SJA: So what inspired this outfit?

AJE: It's Anna Wintour's birthday. I am not so much inspired by things, as I am by people.
He fails to remove his sunglasses. I order my omelet and return. Before taking my first bite, I unzip the garment bag and display my current creation.

SJA: I'm going to need your criticism. Tell me what it needs.
After a moment of introspection, followed by speed sketching in his marketing notebook, he offers me feedback, using his drawing as a reference.

AJE: Well, you have not sacrificed your design integrity. Stop concerning yourself with the design. Trust your vision. The question is styling. I see some gold pumps, some bangles, maybe a couple of brooches connected by a chain. Oh, light the cigarette, get some smoke burning. A hat. Heyyyyy.

SJA: Would this be considered couture?

AJE (suddenly, very serious): There are less than 20 houses considered couture. Your name would have to be legalized by the French government. And you are required to employ an atelier of at least 25. The entire garment has to be hand sewn. You would have to use all natural fabrics.
SJA (interruptting): These are all natural fabrics.

AJE: Are you in Paris? The only American designer classified as couture is Chado Ralph Rucci and he has not presented a collection in over three years.

I continue to eat my bowl of Puffins®. Enough about me, I direct the attention to him. I'm curious about his internship next semester in London.

SJA: Are you excited about Harrods?

AJE (modestly): Mhhmmm. It is very structured and organized. I will be working with each department for a week. For my last two weeks there, I get to choose my favorite department to conclude the program in.

SJA: Do you think you want to work for a luxury clothing store in your future career? Where do you see yourself in five years?

AJE: Ideally. It would be a dream. My mom says I have to work at one of the three B's: Bergdorf's, Bendel's, or Barneys.

He checks his clock. Time to jet down to Whitman. He plants a kiss on both my cheeks (left then right). Our conversation ends. It resumes tomorrow in Booth Three.

Monday, November 10, 2008

OBSESSION: Constructivist Couture






The term “exoticism” stung my mind. It was the assigned inspiration for my senior fashion collection. While the bright colors of a Bengali sari or the intricate bead work of a matador’s cape seem like great muses, I wanted to push the idea. As a fashion designer, I play the role of both stylist and sociologist, and with the current economic state, the mysteries of exotics seemed elusive fuel as catalyst material for a cohesive spring collection. I envisioned severe and serious pieces that demonstrated power through strict lines.
I found the perfect manifesto in Russian Constructivism. This 1920 art and architectural movement pushed design out of the realm of ‘art for art’s sake’ and transformed it into an exercise of social purpose. Bold graphics posters that utilized primary colors and simple shapes characterize the movement. The complex architecture moved me to draft couture pieces with geometric substance. Vladimer Tatlin’s spiraling Monument to the Third International became my guide to denote modernity and a sense of constraint. While the construction of the collection signals high fashion, the mood it suggests seeks to transfer the power of design to the individual. By adopting the style and ideals of constructivism, I hope to create a collection that communicates more than just fashion. You be the judge.







STREET STYLE: Casual Cool

Junior Communications Design major Justine Signore stuck with basics to build her look and to ensure her hand embroidered scarf makes a statement. By pairing grey stretch pants with a v-neck black wool sweater, she created an effortless ensemble for class on a cool fall day.


What shes’s wearing:
- Grey HardTails, $80 available at www.hardtailforever.com
- Frye Campus 14L Boots, $278 available at www.thefryecompany.com
- Men’s V-Neck Wool Sweater, $20 available at www.oldnavy.com
- Hand Embroidered Scarf from Rome

Who’s your fashion icon?
- “Kate Moss, she can wear anything and look amazing. I also love her clothing line for TopShop.”

What your fashion faux pas?
- “When people wear pants that are too short. It’s important that pants hit right at the bottom of your sneakers or sandals.”

STREET STYLE: Classic Twist

While walking through campus I bumped into Nancy who caught my eye with her refreshingly bright take on classic Fall fashion. It was a nice pop of color among the typical blacks and grays that riddle the campus.

The three questions:

1. What is your favorite part of your outfit?
2. Who is your current style icon?
3. Which current trend could you do without?

Nancy's responses:

1. Her tall black suede boots from TJ Maxx. For under $50.00 she didn't even bother remembering the brand.
2. Carrie Bradshaw- vibrant and fun, how appropriate!
3. Wide leg pants- she's never seen them look right on anybody and can't wait to see them go.

OBSESSION: Multitasking Must-Have Jeans




Fashionable young women long ago abandoned The Gap when searching for stylish and modern jeans. After endless seasons of high-cut and “classic” styles (a.k.a. “mom” jeans), Gap finally answered the jean dream of 20-somethings with the brand new Low Rise Boot Cut jean. Available in a variety of washes — from midnight blue to white and all the colors in between — this multitasking style is versatile enough to wear hanging out during the day and to dress up for a night outing at a modest $59.50-69.50. The jeans look fantastic with everything from sneakers to boots to pumps. Their fit flatters, sitting lower on the hips and coming straight down in a line that is visually perpendicular to the floor. They also offer enough stretch to earn comfort points, and they avoid an unflattering “muffin top” pop at the waistband. They work hard to earn their designation as the perfect pair of jeans (I already own three pairs!). And just like that nerdish boy you ignored in freshman writing class who now possesses more swagger and head-turning looks than David Beckham, I suggest you give The Gap a second look too.

Check them out: http://www.gap.com/browse/category.do?cid=15673

LOOK FOR LESS: Luxury Like Lauren




Ralph Lauren is the icon of American fashion. This look from his Fall 2008 Collection costs $8,546. Achieving the iconic image without spending the equivalent of a used Honda sedan.
Here’s how in five easy steps and only $256.79:
1. Start with Forever 21’s gingham flannel shirt in black and red for $19.80.



2. Splurge on Express’s Luxury stretch 1-button jacket in black for $138.



3. Throw on a pair of Express’s Cassidy velvet downtown flare pants in black for $69.50.



4. Top if off with Wet Seal’s Feather Fedora Hat in black for $14.50.



5. Lastly add a black Merona wide patent belt with metal buckle from Target for $14.99.